The Wizard's Apprentice - Excerpt
What is the best?
The Barti's music...
Or the Adam's vid...
Definitively, both are excellent.
Paul Robinson à Albarracin
Paul Robinson continues his bouldering mission around the world, this time stopping off in Albarracin, Spain. During his quick visit, Robinson repeated numerous high-end classics, as well as established a new problem, Helicopterz On Beachez (8B+) that is one of the area's most difficult.
Varazze par Haroun Souirji
A bouldering short with Boreal athletes Julia Winter and Robert Leistner. Varazze - Italy - is a small town facing the sea, like many on the coast of Liguria. What makes it special is all the small bouldering areas next to it. Varazze recently got in the news because of "Gioia". But there are many other quality lines there.
With this video, I wanted to go for something simple yet a little more abstract than the usual. I wanted to let the footage prevail on the text and decided not to put the grades in the video. But here is the detail of the boulders and grades for those interested:
Nebulosa 7C // Adam's Sleep 7B+ // Messa Delle Streghe 7C // Excalibur Stand 7C // Ciucciati Il Calzino 7B+ // Chiavi Del Regno 7B // Unknown 7A
I hope you enjoy the video!
Music credits at the end of the video.
Scarred for Life - Trailer
Scarred for Life - The Life and Climbs of Dave Graham.
This is the unofficial preview trailer for the upcoming feature release.
We are still a ways off of finishing but this should give you an idea of what we've been up to.
We will release it as soon as it's finished.
Until then check Achromatic Digital Cinema or the blog for additional content as we get closer to completion.
Daniel Woods Life
At the 2012 Hueco Rock Rodeo Daniel Woods had the best day of bouldering in his life. He was able to climb 76 v-points in 6 boulders.
Nagual (v13)
The Machinist (v14)
Crook by the Book (V14)
Phantom Limb V12)
Full Monty (V12)
Two Days With Gene (V11)
2012 ABS Nationals Hommes et Femmes
North America's strongmen converged on Colorado Springs on Feb 24-25, 2012 for ABS Nationals 13. The field of 61 athletes was whittled down to just 6 for Men's Finals. When the dust settled Daniel Woods proved once again that he is simply the best climber in the U.S.
Results:
1. Daniel Woods
2. Ethan Pringle
3. Michael Bautista
4. Carlo Traversi
5. Jon Cardwell
6. Austin Geiman.
Welcome to the official highlights from the Womens 2012 American Bouldering Series National Championships.
Results:
1st - Alex Puccio
2nd - Angie Payne
3rd - Shauna Coxsey
4th - Lizzy Asher
5th - Alex Johnson
6th - Sasha Digiulian
7th - Sierra Blair-Coyle
Guillaume Glairon-Mondet by Marshall
Quelques classiques du Bas-cuvier par Guigui:
- Hypothèse (7C+), version Pan Gullich
- Apothéose (7C+), flash
- Combi Berezina-Carnage assis (8A) juste après le flash de la Berezina assis.
Si j'avais été plus rapide pour sortir ma cam, il y aurait eu (toujours dans la même journée) : Infidèle (flash), Contrôle technique, L'aérodynamite assis et pour finir l'Aérosol...
PS: Guigui, tu me fatigues!!!! ;-)
Alizée Dufraisse 8c+/9a
Alizée Dufraisse, who climbed her first 8c+, Pati noso, not long ago, has now pushed it half a notch further by doing La Reina Mora, 8c+/9a, at Siurana. The route is in the same sector, El Pati, as Pati noso, so it would seem this wall suits her quite well! This was of course the first female ascent. There has, after all, not been that many female ascents at this level. So few in fact that you can count the number of women who have climbed anything harder than 8c+ on one hand, even if you were to have lost a digit (or maybe even two). La Reina Mora was originally given 8c/+ by Ramon Julian Puigblanque but has later been upgraded first by Nico Favresse who suggested 8c+ and then by Dani Andrada who thought it was at least 8c+/9a, maybe even 9a.
Grosses croix à Bleau
Dani Andrada : Portrait
"When I was asked to make a video about Dani Andrada, at first I was super psyched and was looking forward to shooting it. Then, I realized that I had never filmed sport climbing, or even taken my camera on a rope (except to film a highball) and that I would not have time to try even once before going there. So I went to Catalunya not knowing what to except and quite nervous about screwing up while on the rope... Now that I am back, I only want to try shooting routes again!
If you are looking for a pure action video, this is not what this is. This is more of a 'video illustrated interview'. If you want to know more about Dani and his motivations, you are at the right place :-)
Dani has a strong reputation and all I can say is that he is as motivated as you would expect him to be. He is either climbing or bolting, or doing both in a day. He just never stops. And on top of that he is a genuine good person spending most of his non climbing time rebolting older routes to keep Siurana safe.
Weather was not kind with us, having fog, rain and very strong winds but it gave us some very intense tries in Siurana (sorry for the shakiness in La Rambla but I could not fight such wind...). And like Dani says, if you can do it in bad conditions, you will feel stronger when conditions get better..."
Haroun Souirji
Superbe vidéo, superbe personnage!
Nalle Hukkataival à Bleau : Vidéos
Black Diamond athlete Nalle Hukkataival ventured to the iconic blocs of Fontainebleau, France in early 2011 and pulled off a string of impressive ascents during his stay. Here is a highlight reel filmed and edited by Alvi Pakarinen that brilliantly captures Nalle sending Karma (8A+), Elephunk (8B), L'Apparemment (8B), the stunning dyno of Rainbow Rocket (8A)—to name just a few. After all of Nalle's masterful sendage, you'll want to watch the last 2:30 of the video were Nalle (jacked ankle and all) endures failure after failure after failure on La Puce, a one-move-wonder 8A dyno that has him ass-stacking over and over again until, well... watch for yourself and enjoy.
Nalle Hukkataival Australie : Vidéos
Black Diamond athlete Nalle Hukkataival spent most of September 2011 down in Australia, climbing on the beautiful and bullet stone of the Grampians. We had Keith Ladzinski on the scene to capture the action and he came back with gigs of quality footage—so many gigs of footy that it took he and his partner at Three Strings Media, Andy Mann, until now to work through the goods. But the wait was worth it as you see Nalle nailing down FAs and classic boulders, as well as even tying into a rope (no one can resist the call of the stunning Taipan Wall!).
Nalle Hukkataival à Bleau
Hier, le 04 février, Nalle croite la FA de "Realist",8B+, passage brossé par ses soins ainsi que "Gecko assis", 8B+!!!
Parlant de "Realist" Nalle n'arrive pas à croire qu'il est encore possible de trouver de tel passage en forêt de Fontainebleau. Ce passage est un mix entre les plats de Bleau et les réglettes de Chironico.
(Source : 27 Crags)
Nalle Hukkataival fait la FA de "Realist".
Photo coll. N. Hukkataival.
Adam Ondra à Bleau 3 - Gecko
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France.
We sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his five-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam.
Here is Video #3 of the three-part series Alvi edited together for us of Adam's trip, and this one capture‘s Adam's flash of Gekko Assis (8B+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest.
Adam wrote the following about the moments captured in Video #3:
"After restday, we woke up into still and foggy conditions, but it was obvious that the fog must diminish soon and the sun will show up on the sky. Warm up in Bas Cuvier was an incredible joy, doing the first 6A (Marie Rose) and 7A (Joker) in a sunny morning was a true pleasure. Kheops assis was ticked off in a couple of tries. I went to L'Apparemment low start, an 8B in Apremont sector. This is truly incredible problem with insane typical-Font topoput. I had some problems, especially wet footholds at the beginning, but after an hour it was done. Just next to it, there was one more 8B, La pierre philosophale by Fred Nicole. A roof with hard fingerlocks, it was too much for the end of the day, Jacky was true claiming that this is one of the hardest roofs in Font.
One last day. My goal for the season was to flash an 8B+, but within autumn having too many projects, I abandoned this idea and gave it up for the year. But one problem came on my mind, Gecko. My friend Andrej Chrastina told me about it 5 years ago, when I did bouldering very rarely. Andrej was persuading me to go to Font to try this problem, saying that it would fit my style very well. A last day of climbing of 2011... why not give it a try to fulfill my goal of the year? All the other goals for the year I had already managed to fulfill (excluding competitions).
The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day and after the climbing the previous day. I took some warm up, not feeling very well, but having a lot of psych thanks to cold conditions. I tried to remember the video from the previous night, asked my friends to clean the holds that I couldn't reach from the pads and I set off. First two moves were OK, then it was very hard to move left heel to the left. I was very close to falling, feeling that I was loosing a balance for a moment, but somehow I stayed on the rock. There is a one thing that I really love in climbing: heel hooking. And the rest of the problem is about awkward heelhooks and I felt pretty solid. The last hard movement I shrieked, but I was almost sure I would do it. I felt unstoppable at that very moment.
Concrening the grade I am not very sure, I would love to claim that I flashed an 8B+, but I am awkward to admit that I could climb that well. Considering the effort and how (not) fresh I felt, I can't agree with 8B+, at least for my height. Or was I really in such a good shape, especially when all the other repetitions had confirmed the grade of 8B+? I wish I were, but my own subjective feeling tells me something else.
The rest of the day we spent in Cuisiniere, where I had to climb Karma, the world-famous 8A. And despite humidity, mission completed. Duel, another famous 8A, seemed like an ideal end of the year, but I had to admit defeat in that humidity. Doesn't matter, the year 2011 was successful enough to make me feel satisfied and this trip will be definitely immense source of motivation for the next year.
Font is an incredible place and the beauty of climbing there was even better than I had hoped. It is definitely, the best bouldering area I have ever visited."
Memory is Parallax V14 FA
Follow Dave Graham and others as they try this crimping masterpiece located just outside RMNP in Colorado. All music mixed by Dave Graham except for the second track (martyparty). Check out www.BearCamMedia.com for more.
Adam Ondra à Bleau 2
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France.
We sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his five-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam, including his stunning flash of Gekko Assis (8b+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest.
Here is Video #2 of the three-part series Alvi edited together for us of Adam's trip, and follows Adam as he boulders with one of the forest's true maestros, Jacky Godoffe (who is also a BD athlete). Jacky took Adam on a proper tour of some classics, including La Merveille (8A+) and C'etait Demain (8A, the first of its grade in the forest and FA'd by Jacky).
If you missed Video #1, watch it here: http://vimeo.com/35171521
Stay tuned for Video #3 (which has the Gekko Assis flash footage).
Adam wrote the following about the moments captured in Video #2:
"We went to Bas Cuvier parking where we had a meeting with the man of the forest: Jacky Godoffe. It was very inspiring to see him bouldering, being as psyched as ever even after so many years in the forest. I wanted to do some real classic and that is definitely La Merveille (8A). This is amazing prow with the high, but safe crux on the top. Jacky gave me some good beta and I flashed it! Funny thing was that when I latched the lip, I got just slopper a couple centimeters below the real jug and hung there for a second, having no clue what to do or if I was about to fall. From the ground, I might have seemed pretty relaxed and I heard Jacky as a spotter saying OK and going away. In that moment I squealed a desperate “No!“ and I felt that my spotter returned and I could stabilize myself again to do a final bump into the real jug. The end of the day was spent by trying C'etait Demain, the first 8A in the forest in 1984 and also established by Jacky. This was a hard one, and I spent about 20 tries on it, trying and trying again and getting desperately close to doing these two crux moves. Jacky tried with me and we had a plenty of fun, laughing at the precision and coordination this problem requires. In the end, I made it up this blank overhanging wall."
L'ultimo dei Moicani, 8B+
Quick editing of last year's footage of L'Ultimo dei Moicani, 8b+(?!) at Monte Amiata... for sending the bouder I had to wait one year more and spend there over 2 months across Christmas time!
New video with more footage coming out soon inside the longer Monte Amiata presentation video... stay tuned!
Life on hold - Trailer 2
Life on Hold is a new UK bouldering film from Outcrop Films. It follows Britain's top climbers and visiting stars around the UK, tackling some of the highest and hardest problems around. From the tough, mentally challenging highballs on the gritstone edges, to the short, powerful, esoteric testpieces of the limestone and everything in between. We've filmed the new emerging scene of strong boulderers and their tour around Britain's finest.
Featuring: Ned Feehally, Micky Page, Dan Varian, Chris Webb-Parsons, Michele Caminati, Shauna Coxsey, David Mason, Alex Puccio, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Jon Partridge, Martin Smith, Ryan Pasquill, Ben Thompson.
In association with Five Ten and Arc'teryx. With support from The Climbing Works, Wild Country, Tip Juice and Beastmaker.
See 30 minutes of the film before anyone else at SHAFF!
http://www.shaff.co.uk/
Upcoming UK premieres to be announced
Music: Outro by M83
Adam Ondra à Bleau
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France.
We sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his four-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam, including his stunning flash of Gekko Assis (8b+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest.
Below is Video #1 of the three-part series Alvi edited together for us of Adam's trip, and follows Adam on his first couple of days in the forest as he discovers just how tricky and fickle Font climbing can be. Adam, though, is not one to get pushed around for too long and he quickly comes to form and rails off a series of 8A+ and 8Bs, including Sideways Daze (8B), Fata Morgana Bas (8A+, flash), Satan l'Helvéte (8B).
Check back soon for Videos #2 and #3 from Adam's historic visit to Fontainebleau.
Park Life
Louder Than 11 is proud to present "Park Life - Yosemite Bouldering" coming to the internet, for free, on Monday, January 16 at 9AM Mountain Standard time.
Mark your calendars, grab a snack and sit back for 27 action packed minutes from Yosemite Valley, January 16th.
Starring :
Natasha Barnes, Rich Crowder, Sarah Fullerton, Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman, Ryan Silven, Ben Vernon, Anson Whitmer, Dave Wetmore, Max Zolotukhin.
Directed by :
Rich Crowder, Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman.
Video by :
Rich Crowder, Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman.
Additional Camera Support by :
Ben Vernon
Director of Photography :
Rich Crowder
Edited by :
Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman.
Motion Graphics by :
Jordan Shipman.
Visual Effects by :
Jordan Shipman.
Music Supervision by :
Jon Glassberg
Best Boy Grip :
Ben Vernon.
Special Thanks to :
Urban Climber, Revolution Climbing, Ethan Pringle, Buck Hoover, Chad Wolak, Doug Hartman.
Free. Whether you like it or not.
© 2012 Louder Than 11
Saint Just
Entre les séances de muscu et d'électro, Marshall et Astroben s'offrent un p'tit bol d'air à St Just pour profiter de l'air frais du Cantal. L'occasion de refaire la superbe proue de Pounty street (7B+) et d'ouvrir pour Astroben sa variante sans l'arête de droite, Bounty street (7C).
En tout cas, un p'tit site qui mérite largement l'arrêt pour qui traverse le Cantal et estime avoir trop de peau sur les doigts...
A fine line - Chris Sharma
This is a short sample of a video featuring Chris Sharma on Fight or Flight (15b) and a new project near his home in Spain. In the video, Chris speaks about maintaining motivation and peak performance. The full version of this video can be seen exclusively at www.dpmclimbing.com in The Stash.
Un extrait complémentaire du film "A fine line" en cliquant sur "Lire plus"
Lire Plus…
James Pearson Pembrocke
A fantastic video made by Keith Bradbury and filmed for The North Face of James Pearson on his recent epic trip to Pembroke where he obliterated lots of previous highs with a bunch of great ascents culminating in the first E10 ground up.