The Master Of Moves : Jacky Godoffe
BDTV Episode 6: The Master Of Moves from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.
In the forests of Fontainebleau, the boulders hold some of the most astounding shapes in the world, inspiration to artists and climbers alike. World Cup route setter Jacky Godoffe has been climbing there for decades, and his routes are drawn from the motion of Font. For Jacky, this expression, and sharing it with others, is his happiness.
Read the full story at blackdiamondequipment.com/en/bdtv-episode-6.html
BDTV Episode Six.
Nos voisins Luxembourgeois à Bleau
This is part 2 of "Lifestyle FONTAINEBLEAU". This video is about bouldering in Fontainebleau and the lifestyle climbers lead when they hang around in their favorite forest to solve boulder problems. The boulders were filmed from November 2014 to July 2016 together with, Yves Schartz, Pierre Goerens, Olivier Groff, Eric Dimmer, Ewa Kowoll and Nicole Schartz. ... Don't miss the outtakes after the credits :) Enjoy!
La Fonte
La fonte from Le Fred on Vimeo.
Des connus et d'autres moins, certains hauts...que du joli de mon point de vue:
- Iceberg raccourci assis, 7b+/c
- Le surplomb feuilleté gauche, 7a (manque le début sur la vidéo mais Vito l'a bien torché)
- Deimos, 7a
- Strate eau sphère, 7b+/c (peut-être 7b)
- Chicken skin assis, 7a/6c (7a je pense, du cinq star!)
- Ok corral, 7a
- La barre fixe, 7b+
- La coulée verte, 7a
- Psychotrope, 7a/+
- Célinette, 7a (Ju l'a torché aussi, désolé gars pas assez de lumière ce coup-ci)
- Toiles de maîtres, 7a+ (comme son nom l'indique)
- Le royaume des saucisses, 7b/+
- Sérénité, 7b (après avoir flashé son voisin de droite, mais plus de batterie pour filmer)
Les quatre saisons à Bleau
2 ans de bloc à Bleau avec Seb frigault et Mounir Farhat, membres de la Team S'cape de Fontainebleau
des instants capturés au plus près des grimpeurs, de la joie, de la rage, du rire ...
des ouvertures
des répétitions
des blocs faciles, des durs mais surtout hors des sentiers battus
Si vous utilisez la magnésie, faites comme nous, nettoyez vos traits, les prises et nettoyez à l'eau en quittant votre bloc !
Grimpez les pieds propres, on n'est pas en salle !!
Prochaine saison à venir ...
Bleau autrement par Neil
First few days with the inspire from neil hart on Vimeo.
Most people have done first flight videos with this amazing new machine, I thought I would do first few days with it,
The flying is amazing, there are no post stabalizing on this video, the craft is so smooth, One thing I did play with was the camera settings just to see what cababilities it has, with and without filters, you will see the difference on certain shots, Personaly, I think the best image comes out of the 1080p setting and not the 4k mode, Whatever you do, do not use vivid profile in 4k around trees its horrible, you will see in this video,
But as for a drone, its amazing, set up in seconds and in the air just as fast, I did change the gains to make it smoother and more responsive, ( but please do not do this unless you know what you are doing )
I have to see im still chicken to use the auto take of and land, but who needs it anyway, its a dodle to fly, enjoy
For a good all round all shot machine you cant go wrong, but I will still use my S900 for those great shots needed
Fontainebleau - Iker Arroitajauregi
Vous avez la possibilité de faire un don à Iker pour cette vidéo en allant directement sur "Vimeo".
Si te ha gustado el video, hay una opcion para darme una propina... para poder seguir escalando y editando videos, gracias!
- Il Était une Fois Bleau 8a
- Realist 8a
- Karma 8a+
- Bleu Sacré 8a+/b
- La Théorie des Jeux 8b
- Le Tajine 8b
- Mustur 8a+ F.A.
- L´Arete de Boissy assis 8b+
- Le Surplomb de la Mée assis 8b+
- Jour de Chasse 8c
Boulderholics Trips
Zusammenschnitt quer durch die Zeit und Europa von verschiedenen Boulderholics-Trips
Out of Sight
A Film by Neil Hart.
Fontainebleau is one of the most popular climbing destination on the planet, with thousands of boulders spread over hundreds of areas. From he classic areas of the Franchard and Cuvier to the less know areas of Buthiers and JA Martin.
Come follow a group of the worlds best climbers as they explore the most hidden beautiful boulders of this enchanted forest. They will take you on a journey to parts of the forest you have never heard off and boulders you have never seen, Not only that but boulders just of the paths in the main areas that are so beautiful but seldom climbed.
Produced and directed by Neil Hart.
Location, Hidden Fontainebleau.
Climbers, Nalle Hukkataival, Chris Schulte, Nico Favresse, Jacky Godoffe, Jo Montchaussé, Simon (kook) Newstead, Olivier Lebreton, Daniel Olausson, Barnaby Ventham, Glairon Mondet Guillaume.
Support from, BLACK DIAMOND, I LOVE CLIMBING, MAISONBLEAU and I-BBZ.
Inhale.Exhale
This video is a very personal retrospection with some insights and thoughts on my passion for the last years: Highballing.
The Traphouse, 8B+, et plus!!
Guillaume GLAIRON MONDET climbing in Font with good friction again.
Guillaume GLAIRON MONDET grimpe à Fontainebleau avec la collante.
List of the problems :
The Traphouse, 8B/+, Cuvier Rempart
L'apparement bas, 8B, Envers d'Apremont
La directe du surplomb de la Mée assis, 8B, Potala
Musique : Promoe - Headache
The Big Island
Jan Hojer climbing the Big Island 8C in Coquibus Rumont
Music: "Edgar Wallis - (the Answer) it was good" for free download and more Music visit soundcloud.com/edgarwallis
Bart van Raaij - Symbiose gauche 7C
Bart van Raaij, author of the greatly appreciated guidebooks "Straight ups in Fontainebleau" (5+6 and 7+8), climbing Symbiose gauche in 95.2.
Featured problem:
Symbiose gauche 7C - 95.2 (Fontainebleau)
Climber in video:
Bart van Raaij
Edit:
Daniel Olausson
Camera:
Daniel Olausson
Visit:
Bouldersgate.blogspot.com
In association with:
www.Tierra.se
www.Fiveten.com
www.TheGeckoworld.com
The Big Island.
Guillaume GLAIRON MONDET dans l'enchaînement "The Big Island", 8C au secteur Coquibus Rumont, Fontainebleau.
Guillaume Glairon-Mondet by Marshall
Quelques classiques du Bas-cuvier par Guigui:
- Hypothèse (7C+), version Pan Gullich
- Apothéose (7C+), flash
- Combi Berezina-Carnage assis (8A) juste après le flash de la Berezina assis.
Si j'avais été plus rapide pour sortir ma cam, il y aurait eu (toujours dans la même journée) : Infidèle (flash), Contrôle technique, L'aérodynamite assis et pour finir l'Aérosol...
PS: Guigui, tu me fatigues!!!! ;-)
Grosses croix à Bleau
Nalle Hukkataival à Bleau : Vidéos
Black Diamond athlete Nalle Hukkataival ventured to the iconic blocs of Fontainebleau, France in early 2011 and pulled off a string of impressive ascents during his stay. Here is a highlight reel filmed and edited by Alvi Pakarinen that brilliantly captures Nalle sending Karma (8A+), Elephunk (8B), L'Apparemment (8B), the stunning dyno of Rainbow Rocket (8A)—to name just a few. After all of Nalle's masterful sendage, you'll want to watch the last 2:30 of the video were Nalle (jacked ankle and all) endures failure after failure after failure on La Puce, a one-move-wonder 8A dyno that has him ass-stacking over and over again until, well... watch for yourself and enjoy.
Nalle Hukkataival à Bleau
Hier, le 04 février, Nalle croite la FA de "Realist",8B+, passage brossé par ses soins ainsi que "Gecko assis", 8B+!!!
Parlant de "Realist" Nalle n'arrive pas à croire qu'il est encore possible de trouver de tel passage en forêt de Fontainebleau. Ce passage est un mix entre les plats de Bleau et les réglettes de Chironico.
(Source : 27 Crags)
Nalle Hukkataival fait la FA de "Realist".
Photo coll. N. Hukkataival.
Adam Ondra à Bleau 3 - Gecko
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France.
We sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his five-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam.
Here is Video #3 of the three-part series Alvi edited together for us of Adam's trip, and this one capture‘s Adam's flash of Gekko Assis (8B+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest.
Adam wrote the following about the moments captured in Video #3:
"After restday, we woke up into still and foggy conditions, but it was obvious that the fog must diminish soon and the sun will show up on the sky. Warm up in Bas Cuvier was an incredible joy, doing the first 6A (Marie Rose) and 7A (Joker) in a sunny morning was a true pleasure. Kheops assis was ticked off in a couple of tries. I went to L'Apparemment low start, an 8B in Apremont sector. This is truly incredible problem with insane typical-Font topoput. I had some problems, especially wet footholds at the beginning, but after an hour it was done. Just next to it, there was one more 8B, La pierre philosophale by Fred Nicole. A roof with hard fingerlocks, it was too much for the end of the day, Jacky was true claiming that this is one of the hardest roofs in Font.
One last day. My goal for the season was to flash an 8B+, but within autumn having too many projects, I abandoned this idea and gave it up for the year. But one problem came on my mind, Gecko. My friend Andrej Chrastina told me about it 5 years ago, when I did bouldering very rarely. Andrej was persuading me to go to Font to try this problem, saying that it would fit my style very well. A last day of climbing of 2011... why not give it a try to fulfill my goal of the year? All the other goals for the year I had already managed to fulfill (excluding competitions).
The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day and after the climbing the previous day. I took some warm up, not feeling very well, but having a lot of psych thanks to cold conditions. I tried to remember the video from the previous night, asked my friends to clean the holds that I couldn't reach from the pads and I set off. First two moves were OK, then it was very hard to move left heel to the left. I was very close to falling, feeling that I was loosing a balance for a moment, but somehow I stayed on the rock. There is a one thing that I really love in climbing: heel hooking. And the rest of the problem is about awkward heelhooks and I felt pretty solid. The last hard movement I shrieked, but I was almost sure I would do it. I felt unstoppable at that very moment.
Concrening the grade I am not very sure, I would love to claim that I flashed an 8B+, but I am awkward to admit that I could climb that well. Considering the effort and how (not) fresh I felt, I can't agree with 8B+, at least for my height. Or was I really in such a good shape, especially when all the other repetitions had confirmed the grade of 8B+? I wish I were, but my own subjective feeling tells me something else.
The rest of the day we spent in Cuisiniere, where I had to climb Karma, the world-famous 8A. And despite humidity, mission completed. Duel, another famous 8A, seemed like an ideal end of the year, but I had to admit defeat in that humidity. Doesn't matter, the year 2011 was successful enough to make me feel satisfied and this trip will be definitely immense source of motivation for the next year.
Font is an incredible place and the beauty of climbing there was even better than I had hoped. It is definitely, the best bouldering area I have ever visited."
Adam Ondra à Bleau 2
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France.
We sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his five-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam, including his stunning flash of Gekko Assis (8b+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest.
Here is Video #2 of the three-part series Alvi edited together for us of Adam's trip, and follows Adam as he boulders with one of the forest's true maestros, Jacky Godoffe (who is also a BD athlete). Jacky took Adam on a proper tour of some classics, including La Merveille (8A+) and C'etait Demain (8A, the first of its grade in the forest and FA'd by Jacky).
If you missed Video #1, watch it here: http://vimeo.com/35171521
Stay tuned for Video #3 (which has the Gekko Assis flash footage).
Adam wrote the following about the moments captured in Video #2:
"We went to Bas Cuvier parking where we had a meeting with the man of the forest: Jacky Godoffe. It was very inspiring to see him bouldering, being as psyched as ever even after so many years in the forest. I wanted to do some real classic and that is definitely La Merveille (8A). This is amazing prow with the high, but safe crux on the top. Jacky gave me some good beta and I flashed it! Funny thing was that when I latched the lip, I got just slopper a couple centimeters below the real jug and hung there for a second, having no clue what to do or if I was about to fall. From the ground, I might have seemed pretty relaxed and I heard Jacky as a spotter saying OK and going away. In that moment I squealed a desperate “No!“ and I felt that my spotter returned and I could stabilize myself again to do a final bump into the real jug. The end of the day was spent by trying C'etait Demain, the first 8A in the forest in 1984 and also established by Jacky. This was a hard one, and I spent about 20 tries on it, trying and trying again and getting desperately close to doing these two crux moves. Jacky tried with me and we had a plenty of fun, laughing at the precision and coordination this problem requires. In the end, I made it up this blank overhanging wall."
Adam Ondra à Bleau
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France.
We sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his four-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam, including his stunning flash of Gekko Assis (8b+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest.
Below is Video #1 of the three-part series Alvi edited together for us of Adam's trip, and follows Adam on his first couple of days in the forest as he discovers just how tricky and fickle Font climbing can be. Adam, though, is not one to get pushed around for too long and he quickly comes to form and rails off a series of 8A+ and 8Bs, including Sideways Daze (8B), Fata Morgana Bas (8A+, flash), Satan l'Helvéte (8B).
Check back soon for Videos #2 and #3 from Adam's historic visit to Fontainebleau.
Bleau, Sideways Daze, 8B
Pour son birthday, Guigui passe (de peu) à côté du flash de Sideways Daze (8B) au Cuvier Rempart mais se rattrape en l'expédiant quelques minutes après...
Un beau cadeau d'anniv qui ferait plaisir à bien des grimpeurs!
Une vidéo signée Marshall.
Adam Ondra à Bleau
Article extrait de Kairn.com
Par Pierre Délas - Kairn.com / crédit photos : Lukas Vancura et Pierre Délas
Lire Plus…
Neil Dose de Novembre 2011
November Dose for you all to enjoy, this month there has a been lots of discussions on the forums about ethics in bleau, and the way chalk and pads have been misused, my videos taking the brunt of it all. I tried not to get involved but personal attacks made it hard not to.
Basically it boils down to some simple facts, people putting tick marks all over the blocs and not cleaning them off after climbing, also stacking pads to start routes.
So please respect the forest, and leave it the way you found it, if you see tick marks on boulders please try and clean then off.
Bouldering is becoming very popular and the forest has seen more climbers than ever this year and it is only going to get worse. We need to enjoy the forest and preserve it for future generation so please read this and enjoy the forest.
• Clean off your tick marks
• Don’t misuse chalk
• Take your litter home
• Dig a hole for the toilet
• Don’t chip the rocks
• Respect others around you
• But most of all, respect the forest
So that said, back to the climbing, the conditions have been great in the forest this month, but I have not, 2 weeks off with man flu :) but some great climbs none the less, I think its going to be a good winter.
The climbs:
• Kendo 7c - Mont Pivot
• Le Toit du ninja blanc 7a - JA Martin
• La Mouche 7a - Beauvais
• Nature 7c+ - Cuvier
• Le Chavaliers du Chaos 7c - Bouligny
• Sur Le fil 7a/6c+ - JA Martin
• Panoramix 7a+ - Cuvier
• Musclor 7a - Buthiers
• Fantasia 6c+/7a - Buthiers
Music:
• The Wombats – Tokyo
• Cat Empire - Shoulders
Passage en mode lactate
Pour ne pas perdre le bénéfice des séances de conti au bout du monde, direction un secteur isolé de la JA Martin, pour le retour-aller de Samothrace, (ouvert par JP Bouvier) soit environ une quarantaine de mouvements dans les 8A.
Marshall au Bout du Monde
Après une année noire, rien de tel qu'une bonne dose de conti pour se remettre la caisse. Direction le secteur du bout du monde à l'éléphant pour des traversées majeures de 80 mouvements.
Dans l'ordre d'apparition:
- La boucle du déversoir (8A),
- Un "nouveau" jeu "Le déversoir du bout du monde" (8A),
- Le déversoir par le bas en AR (8A+).