Grosses croix à Bleau
Arjan serait à deux doigts de faire "The island", 8B+. A suivre...
Photo : Source 27 crag.
Dani Andrada : Portrait
"When I was asked to make a video about Dani Andrada, at first I was super psyched and was looking forward to shooting it. Then, I realized that I had never filmed sport climbing, or even taken my camera on a rope (except to film a highball) and that I would not have time to try even once before going there. So I went to Catalunya not knowing what to except and quite nervous about screwing up while on the rope... Now that I am back, I only want to try shooting routes again!
If you are looking for a pure action video, this is not what this is. This is more of a 'video illustrated interview'. If you want to know more about Dani and his motivations, you are at the right place :-)
Dani has a strong reputation and all I can say is that he is as motivated as you would expect him to be. He is either climbing or bolting, or doing both in a day. He just never stops. And on top of that he is a genuine good person spending most of his non climbing time rebolting older routes to keep Siurana safe.
Weather was not kind with us, having fog, rain and very strong winds but it gave us some very intense tries in Siurana (sorry for the shakiness in La Rambla but I could not fight such wind...). And like Dani says, if you can do it in bad conditions, you will feel stronger when conditions get better..."
Haroun Souirji
Superbe vidéo, superbe personnage!
Nalle Hukkataival à Bleau : Vidéos
Black Diamond athlete Nalle Hukkataival ventured to the iconic blocs of Fontainebleau, France in early 2011 and pulled off a string of impressive ascents during his stay. Here is a highlight reel filmed and edited by Alvi Pakarinen that brilliantly captures Nalle sending Karma (8A+), Elephunk (8B), L'Apparemment (8B), the stunning dyno of Rainbow Rocket (8A)—to name just a few. After all of Nalle's masterful sendage, you'll want to watch the last 2:30 of the video were Nalle (jacked ankle and all) endures failure after failure after failure on La Puce, a one-move-wonder 8A dyno that has him ass-stacking over and over again until, well... watch for yourself and enjoy.
Nalle Hukkataival Australie : Vidéos
Black Diamond athlete Nalle Hukkataival spent most of September 2011 down in Australia, climbing on the beautiful and bullet stone of the Grampians. We had Keith Ladzinski on the scene to capture the action and he came back with gigs of quality footage—so many gigs of footy that it took he and his partner at Three Strings Media, Andy Mann, until now to work through the goods. But the wait was worth it as you see Nalle nailing down FAs and classic boulders, as well as even tying into a rope (no one can resist the call of the stunning Taipan Wall!).
Nalle Hukkataival à Bleau
Hier, le 04 février, Nalle croite la FA de "Realist",8B+, passage brossé par ses soins ainsi que "Gecko assis", 8B+!!!
Parlant de "Realist" Nalle n'arrive pas à croire qu'il est encore possible de trouver de tel passage en forêt de Fontainebleau. Ce passage est un mix entre les plats de Bleau et les réglettes de Chironico.
(Source : 27 Crags)
Nalle Hukkataival fait la FA de "Realist".
Photo coll. N. Hukkataival.
Adam Ondra à Bleau 3 - Gecko
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France.
We sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his five-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam.
Here is Video #3 of the three-part series Alvi edited together for us of Adam's trip, and this one capture‘s Adam's flash of Gekko Assis (8B+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest.
Adam wrote the following about the moments captured in Video #3:
"After restday, we woke up into still and foggy conditions, but it was obvious that the fog must diminish soon and the sun will show up on the sky. Warm up in Bas Cuvier was an incredible joy, doing the first 6A (Marie Rose) and 7A (Joker) in a sunny morning was a true pleasure. Kheops assis was ticked off in a couple of tries. I went to L'Apparemment low start, an 8B in Apremont sector. This is truly incredible problem with insane typical-Font topoput. I had some problems, especially wet footholds at the beginning, but after an hour it was done. Just next to it, there was one more 8B, La pierre philosophale by Fred Nicole. A roof with hard fingerlocks, it was too much for the end of the day, Jacky was true claiming that this is one of the hardest roofs in Font.
One last day. My goal for the season was to flash an 8B+, but within autumn having too many projects, I abandoned this idea and gave it up for the year. But one problem came on my mind, Gecko. My friend Andrej Chrastina told me about it 5 years ago, when I did bouldering very rarely. Andrej was persuading me to go to Font to try this problem, saying that it would fit my style very well. A last day of climbing of 2011... why not give it a try to fulfill my goal of the year? All the other goals for the year I had already managed to fulfill (excluding competitions).
The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day and after the climbing the previous day. I took some warm up, not feeling very well, but having a lot of psych thanks to cold conditions. I tried to remember the video from the previous night, asked my friends to clean the holds that I couldn't reach from the pads and I set off. First two moves were OK, then it was very hard to move left heel to the left. I was very close to falling, feeling that I was loosing a balance for a moment, but somehow I stayed on the rock. There is a one thing that I really love in climbing: heel hooking. And the rest of the problem is about awkward heelhooks and I felt pretty solid. The last hard movement I shrieked, but I was almost sure I would do it. I felt unstoppable at that very moment.
Concrening the grade I am not very sure, I would love to claim that I flashed an 8B+, but I am awkward to admit that I could climb that well. Considering the effort and how (not) fresh I felt, I can't agree with 8B+, at least for my height. Or was I really in such a good shape, especially when all the other repetitions had confirmed the grade of 8B+? I wish I were, but my own subjective feeling tells me something else.
The rest of the day we spent in Cuisiniere, where I had to climb Karma, the world-famous 8A. And despite humidity, mission completed. Duel, another famous 8A, seemed like an ideal end of the year, but I had to admit defeat in that humidity. Doesn't matter, the year 2011 was successful enough to make me feel satisfied and this trip will be definitely immense source of motivation for the next year.
Font is an incredible place and the beauty of climbing there was even better than I had hoped. It is definitely, the best bouldering area I have ever visited."
Memory is Parallax V14 FA
Follow Dave Graham and others as they try this crimping masterpiece located just outside RMNP in Colorado. All music mixed by Dave Graham except for the second track (martyparty). Check out www.BearCamMedia.com for more.
Adam Ondra à Bleau 2
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France.
We sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his five-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam, including his stunning flash of Gekko Assis (8b+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest.
Here is Video #2 of the three-part series Alvi edited together for us of Adam's trip, and follows Adam as he boulders with one of the forest's true maestros, Jacky Godoffe (who is also a BD athlete). Jacky took Adam on a proper tour of some classics, including La Merveille (8A+) and C'etait Demain (8A, the first of its grade in the forest and FA'd by Jacky).
If you missed Video #1, watch it here: http://vimeo.com/35171521
Stay tuned for Video #3 (which has the Gekko Assis flash footage).
Adam wrote the following about the moments captured in Video #2:
"We went to Bas Cuvier parking where we had a meeting with the man of the forest: Jacky Godoffe. It was very inspiring to see him bouldering, being as psyched as ever even after so many years in the forest. I wanted to do some real classic and that is definitely La Merveille (8A). This is amazing prow with the high, but safe crux on the top. Jacky gave me some good beta and I flashed it! Funny thing was that when I latched the lip, I got just slopper a couple centimeters below the real jug and hung there for a second, having no clue what to do or if I was about to fall. From the ground, I might have seemed pretty relaxed and I heard Jacky as a spotter saying OK and going away. In that moment I squealed a desperate “No!“ and I felt that my spotter returned and I could stabilize myself again to do a final bump into the real jug. The end of the day was spent by trying C'etait Demain, the first 8A in the forest in 1984 and also established by Jacky. This was a hard one, and I spent about 20 tries on it, trying and trying again and getting desperately close to doing these two crux moves. Jacky tried with me and we had a plenty of fun, laughing at the precision and coordination this problem requires. In the end, I made it up this blank overhanging wall."
L'ultimo dei Moicani, 8B+
Quick editing of last year's footage of L'Ultimo dei Moicani, 8b+(?!) at Monte Amiata... for sending the bouder I had to wait one year more and spend there over 2 months across Christmas time!
New video with more footage coming out soon inside the longer Monte Amiata presentation video... stay tuned!
Life on hold - Trailer 2
Life on Hold is a new UK bouldering film from Outcrop Films. It follows Britain's top climbers and visiting stars around the UK, tackling some of the highest and hardest problems around. From the tough, mentally challenging highballs on the gritstone edges, to the short, powerful, esoteric testpieces of the limestone and everything in between. We've filmed the new emerging scene of strong boulderers and their tour around Britain's finest.
Featuring: Ned Feehally, Micky Page, Dan Varian, Chris Webb-Parsons, Michele Caminati, Shauna Coxsey, David Mason, Alex Puccio, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Jon Partridge, Martin Smith, Ryan Pasquill, Ben Thompson.
In association with Five Ten and Arc'teryx. With support from The Climbing Works, Wild Country, Tip Juice and Beastmaker.
See 30 minutes of the film before anyone else at SHAFF!
http://www.shaff.co.uk/
Upcoming UK premieres to be announced
Music: Outro by M83
Adam Ondra à Bleau
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France.
We sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his four-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam, including his stunning flash of Gekko Assis (8b+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest.
Below is Video #1 of the three-part series Alvi edited together for us of Adam's trip, and follows Adam on his first couple of days in the forest as he discovers just how tricky and fickle Font climbing can be. Adam, though, is not one to get pushed around for too long and he quickly comes to form and rails off a series of 8A+ and 8Bs, including Sideways Daze (8B), Fata Morgana Bas (8A+, flash), Satan l'Helvéte (8B).
Check back soon for Videos #2 and #3 from Adam's historic visit to Fontainebleau.
Park Life
Louder Than 11 is proud to present "Park Life - Yosemite Bouldering" coming to the internet, for free, on Monday, January 16 at 9AM Mountain Standard time.
Mark your calendars, grab a snack and sit back for 27 action packed minutes from Yosemite Valley, January 16th.
Starring :
Natasha Barnes, Rich Crowder, Sarah Fullerton, Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman, Ryan Silven, Ben Vernon, Anson Whitmer, Dave Wetmore, Max Zolotukhin.
Directed by :
Rich Crowder, Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman.
Video by :
Rich Crowder, Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman.
Additional Camera Support by :
Ben Vernon
Director of Photography :
Rich Crowder
Edited by :
Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman.
Motion Graphics by :
Jordan Shipman.
Visual Effects by :
Jordan Shipman.
Music Supervision by :
Jon Glassberg
Best Boy Grip :
Ben Vernon.
Special Thanks to :
Urban Climber, Revolution Climbing, Ethan Pringle, Buck Hoover, Chad Wolak, Doug Hartman.
Free. Whether you like it or not.
© 2012 Louder Than 11
Saint Just
Entre les séances de muscu et d'électro, Marshall et Astroben s'offrent un p'tit bol d'air à St Just pour profiter de l'air frais du Cantal. L'occasion de refaire la superbe proue de Pounty street (7B+) et d'ouvrir pour Astroben sa variante sans l'arête de droite, Bounty street (7C).
En tout cas, un p'tit site qui mérite largement l'arrêt pour qui traverse le Cantal et estime avoir trop de peau sur les doigts...
A fine line - Chris Sharma
This is a short sample of a video featuring Chris Sharma on Fight or Flight (15b) and a new project near his home in Spain. In the video, Chris speaks about maintaining motivation and peak performance. The full version of this video can be seen exclusively at www.dpmclimbing.com in The Stash.
Un extrait complémentaire du film "A fine line" en cliquant sur "Lire plus"
Lire Plus…
James Pearson Pembrocke
A fantastic video made by Keith Bradbury and filmed for The North Face of James Pearson on his recent epic trip to Pembroke where he obliterated lots of previous highs with a bunch of great ascents culminating in the first E10 ground up.
Bleau, Sideways Daze, 8B
Pour son birthday, Guigui passe (de peu) à côté du flash de Sideways Daze (8B) au Cuvier Rempart mais se rattrape en l'expédiant quelques minutes après...
Un beau cadeau d'anniv qui ferait plaisir à bien des grimpeurs!
Une vidéo signée Marshall.
Legends Only 2011
On demand, here's an even shorter version of the La Sportiva Legends Only comp that took place at Klättercentret Telefonplan in october.
Un résumé de 12 minutes est disponible en cliquant sur "Lire plus"...
Lire Plus…
Adam Ondra - First 8C Boulders
Adam Ondra climbed his first two 8C boulders in November 2010 in Ticino, Switzerland.
BIG PAW - 8B+/C
FROM DIRT GROW THE FLOWERS - 8C
This small video is small Christmas present form "BERNARTWOOD studio" to all climbers. These 2 boulders did not find its place in the final movie about Adam. They were planned to be on the DVD in EXTRAS. But yesterday, I decided to edit it a bit and give it to everybody...
Sorry for the "big" movie about Adam taking so long, it was incredibly hard work, mainly mental, but it is finished, and prepared for delivering. We would like to put it out as a HD DOWNLOAD on December 31st, if all technical aspects will be OK.
DVD with really rich extras will follow in January.
All the important info (length, formats, prices, film tour etc) will appear after December 26th on WWW.ADAMONDRAFILM.COM
Have a nice and quiet non-consume winter time...
Petr Pavlíček - author of the movie.
The Mark of the Beast
One lone man in the middle of the desert does the impossible and turns back the hands of time. After a five year hiatus from the bouldering mecca of Hueco Tanks, Texas. Jay Bone returns to try and prove himself on the stone that made him the man he is today. His inner struggle is only half the battle as he try's to earn the Mark of the Beast, with his trusty sidekick Flash at his side.
Une vidéo CryptoChild par Jason Kehl.
Straight Out of Africa
Brian Antheunisse, Scott Cory, Rob D'Anastasio and Dave Wetmore travel to Rocklands, South Africa on a bouldering safari. Follow the crew as they climb over 20 boulders from 7B to 8B, narrowly avoid being eaten by lions and all to a 1980's soundtrack!
Boulders included :
Amphitheatre (8A+)
Au Bour d'Leau (8A)
Black Mango Chutney (7C+)
Black Shadow (8A+)
Black Velvet (8A)
Cedar Spine (7C)
Gliding Through Waves Like Dolphins (8A)
Golden Virginia (8A)
Green Mamba (8A)
Hole in One (7C+)
Last Day In Paradise (7C+)
Mooiste Meise (8B)
Nutsa (8A)
Oral Office (8A+)
Paula Abdul (7C+)
Pinotage (7C+)
Power of One (8B)
Roadcrew Arete (7B)
Royksopp (8A)
Shosholoza (8A+)
Solar Power (7C+/8A)
The Vice (8B)
Witness the Sickness (8A)
© Louder Than 11
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